Seneca Falls, New York

Monday, July 13, 2009

We visited the historic town of Seneca Falls this morning. It was once a bustling manufacturing center but the town now relies on tourism and farming, since the factories have long since moved or closed down. The abundant water power that once drove the economy here became obsolete with the advent of the steam engine and later the internal combustion engine. The town has survived due mainly to Susan B. Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton, who met here in 1851. Seneca Falls is now known as the home of the women's suffrage movement and by extension the women's rights movement in general. It seems incredible now, but women were not given the right to vote in federal elections until 1919. The right to vote is essential to any democracy. Universal suffrage lies at the heart of the Constitution and is woven into this living document for all to see. It just took a little longer for the politicians in Washington to accept the literal truth of this premise. America should honor these courageous women with a better token than a failed silver dollar, and Seneca Falls could do a better job of marketing their great contributions to a larger audience. There is a life-sized statue here of the auspicious introduction of these historic women.

Jeremy's Cafe, directly across the street from the Women's Suffrage museum was the ideal place to have lunch. Traveling with a dog always presents problems when one gets hungry, so the best places for us are ones with outdoor seating. After a terrific breakfast and lingering over coffee, we walked over to the historic Trinity Church. I'm not sure which denomination presently controls the pulpit but looking up at the beautiful Tiffany stained glass windows (yes, authentic Tiffany glass), one would have to assume that the current crop of parishioners are in no way as affluent as were those in the past. Still a beautiful edifice, someday it will make a great museum.

Cayuga Lake State Park, NY

Sunday, July 12, 2009
We spent a leisurely morning riding our bicycles around the campground and across the road to Cayuga Lake. I wanted to reconnoiter to see if there was a good place to launch the boat. There was. Although the swimming wasn't great, as the designated area was way too shallow, the water was much warmer than we'd experienced at Treman Falls. The rest of the day we spent gathering firewood and relaxing with our respective books. There is pleasure in doing absolutely nothing but snuggling and dozing in the back of the Casita.

Ithaca - Day 5

Saturday, July 11, 2009

After Vince left Ithaca to return to Philly/Jersey, Carol broke camp and I prepared the Casita for departure. Before going over to Tracy's house we went to reprovison ourselves at the Farmer's Market. Because it has a permanent facility, it has become one of Ithaca's great standing traditions. There are lots of food and craft vendors selling everything from organic vegetables to pottery to local estate bottled wine. Strolling through the covered arcade I found it difficult to pass the numerous bakery stalls without an oatmeal raisin cookie or two. The Market is on the water, so we sat under trees and ate our cookies, while live, spontaneous music played nearby. We ran into Knut there with Tiny. It seems he's inspired to get out and about more often. Let's hope it sticks.
Later in the afternoon we arrived at Tracy's. She has a rambling old farmhouse in the village of Newell, about 10 miles from Ithaca. She and her two daughters welcomed us most graciously. There was plenty of space to park the Casita but was one snag: the house had eleven cats. After about 10 minutes sitting in the living room, it became apparent that the cats had marked their territiory thoroughly. I started to feel nauseous. I looked over to Carol and saw she felt the same way. Tracy, Aurora and Cynthia would be leaving for a wedding in Cincinnati before the Grassroots Festival, but there were several days between now and then. This was not going to work. I felt it would be extremely awkward if Carol and I parked the Casita outside and never came in the house to socialize with them. They are lovely people but we didn't want to offend them by staying out in the Casita the whole time. We in turn didn't want to be offended by feeling obliged to hang out in the house every day. Better, I thought, to stay somewhere else until they left the following Wednesday for their road trip. The house would be vacant then, and we could go in and feed the cats, fish, hamsters and plants, spending as little time as possible in the house. Therefore, since the house was cluttered and it was apparent that it was a staging area for their trip, I explained to Tracy that we did not want to be in their way while they packed. It would be best for them not to have houseguests during this time, which was true, and said we'd go up the road to find a place on the lake for a few days. She agreed, and seemed relieved. We said our goodbyes, and Aurora send us off with some apple cider and apple donuts made fresh that morning at the orchard she works at.

Back in the van, we headed north to see if there were any campsites available at Cayuga Lake State Park, located on the northern end of this finger lake. Pulling in late in the day, after stopping first at the top of Taughannock Falls, we found the place nearly empty and we had an entire loop to ourselves.

Ithaca - Day 4

Friday July 10, 2009

After breakfast Carol and I headed back into town. I needed to pay some bills so we made our way to Starbucks and hooked into their wi-fi. Between the Blackberry and the laptop we are able to stay in contact with friends as well as pay bills and keep track of our finances. It truly is a technologically wondrous age.

Afterwards we walked the Commons in search of a good bookstore. I wanted to get Knut a couple of books on CD. I had hoped to find the “Master and Commander” series by Patrick O'Brian since Knut was an old salty dog, but none were available. Instead, I bought “The Road Less Traveled” and “The Kite Runner” for him to listen to. One side effect of the various medications he has to take is insomnia. I therefore figured a pair of engrossing and entertaining books might help better pass the time.

Meanwhile, Vince and Christie were planning an ice cream social in Knut's honor. Vince called several of Knut's old friends to come to the campground including Beth Brown, the mother of his second child, Indiana. Besides Beth, it was great to also see Bill and Tiny again, people I had met during my last Ithaca visit. We told some jokes, laughed a lot and ate more ice cream; one of the only non-macrobiotic foods Knut will eat. By the dim light of the fire, the ravages of time did not appear on our faces. The grey was gone from our hair and for a few minutes we could imagine ourselves in all our former glory.

It was later, after everyone had departed, while the four of us sat by the embers thinking about what a great time we all had, that I mentioned the Grassroots Festival. Since things were going so well with Knut, and one never knows when one will be in the neighborhood again, I figured, why not? Vince and Christie needed to return to Philly to finish some business but would be free to return to Ithaca next Friday. Tracy, one of Knut's caregivers, offered to let us park the Casita on her two acre home site, and so the plot was hatched. We would stay in the area for the 19th annual Grassroots Festival coming up next weekend.

Ithaca - Day 3

Thursday July 9, 2009

We (the foursome) started the morning discussing last nights events and todays schedule over breakfast at the Ithaca Bakery. Ithaca is a very cool college town. Cornell University is here, along with the energy and enthusiasm brought by young, bright, idealistic minds. The town is at the tip of Cayuga Lake, one of the 11 Finger Lakes and this whole area is very green and scenic.

Today's schedule was full. I needed to bring the van into Monro's to get a wheel alignment, oil change and a new set of shocks. One should always get the front end aligned when purchasing new tires. Unfortunately the Wal-mart in Wisconsin where I bought the tires did not offer that service. A grave oversight in their business model. Anyway, once the van was dropped off we headed back to the campground to change sites. This was a nuisance but the only way to remain at the park due to a conflict in the reservations department.

Afterward, Carol and I rode our bikes up to the swimming hole located directly under a magnificently terraced waterfall. Without our swimsuits we could only stroll around the area and admire the beauty of the setting. Later I would return and take the plunge. Diving into 65 degree river water is better than two or three cups of coffee. The jolt to the nervous system puts all of ones faculties on alert. I don't think a person can feel more alive than when they've immersed themselves into really cold water.
After our ride it was back to the campsite for another fabulous meal, courtesy of Chef Christie, and yet another night of reminiscing around the campfire. Nothing like good times with good friends.

Ithaca - Day 2

Wednesday, July 8, 2007
The next morning Vince, Christie, Carol and I drove to the Taughannock Falls and hiked up a wooded trail along the river for a good view. The whole Finger Lake district is awash in streams and waterfalls. These you see in the pictures are considered the best in the area by the locals.
Back at the campground, also one of the best in the area, Vince took out his box of old photos. Back in 1972 he was just an amateur photographer. Over the subsequent years he has gone on to become a successful professional photographer, so the pictures he passed around were more like raw movie footage. Some were blurry, some out of focus, but they all brought back great memories of our European days. During the five years I lived in Europe, Vince and I spent many of those days together, traveling along and down the European hippie trail.

That evening Vince managed to persuade Knut to visit us at the campground. We ate ice cream looking out across our meadow, and had a grand time. For awhile it seemed just like old times until Knut said he needed to be taken home before his meds wore off whereby he would start to freeze up. In spite of the shortened stay it was great to see him out and about. Eight years is a long time to be boxed up in a house.

Treman Falls State Park, Ithaca, NY

Tuesday July 7, 2009

This is a fine NY state campground. We are greeted by a smiling tree man upon entry, and have to drive over a creek to come in and out of the park.

Vince and I started the morning with a vigorous hike to the top of the Tremen Falls. He has a bad knee and I have a gimpy leg so between the two of us we set no speed records, which allowed us to truly see and enjoy nature. After lunch, we rode over to visit our friend, Knut. I hadn't seen him since I was last out this way in the summer of 1998. I first met Knut in Heidelberg, Germany around 1973. He was one of the most physically fit and healthy individuals I'd ever met. He was a serious chick magnet and had an artistic flair that I appreciated but could never emulate. He wore jewelry and flamboyant, colorful clothes. He played conga drums and loved all types of African music. Pretty much my opposite but we hit it off nonetheless and stayed in touch throughout the years.

When I returned to the States in the late seventies, he was living in Florida and invited me down to share an apartment he had near Coconut Grove. After I relocated to northern California in the early eighties and started making serious money growing pot, I called him and invited him to come to Mendocino. He came out and stayed for 3-4 years. We sweated and grunted our way through several good harvests in the back hills and woods of Gualala.

On one of his winter trips to the Virgin Islands, he met and fell in love with a girl named Patty. She was a gorgeous, blond, blue-eyed, hippie earth momma that he found irresistible. He moved with her to her farmhouse near Ithaca, New York. He soon learned she was pregnant with his first child. Ever since I had known Knut, he believed he was sterile. Now that Patty was with-child, he was convinced this was a sign from God that they were meant for each other forever. Once that occurred, things began to unravel pretty quickly. Patty took advantage of her position and it went downhill from there. I mention all of this because somewhere along the line, Knut's nerves were shot and he began to shake. Not long afterward he was diagnosed with Parkinson's disease. During my 1998 visit he seemed much the same as the old days. The initial stages of the disease were relatively mild and we still went hiking, biking and joked around. We three, Vince, myself and Knut went to the Grassroots festival and had a ball. He was upbeat, had an adoring child in Blossom and was still a chick magnet.

Now back to the present, walking into his living room on this July day I was in for was a shock. He looked like an old man. Knut had lost his vitality along with a good 25 pounds. He shuffled and stammered like a geriatric patient. Vince had warned me of the change but I was not fully prepared for this transformation. The only time we could visit with him was between 7 and 9 pm when his medication kicked in. It was sad. In the last 8 years he essentially had not left his house. After about an hour of kicking around some old memories, I saw that we were tiring him so we left.

Meanwhile, Carol and Christie had a grand time shopping and dining in and around the Ithaca Commons, a premier location for such activities. Although they were excited by the sights and sounds of their expedition, I was a bit subdued that evening, contemplating the vagaries of life.